Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Munnar Trip 6/24- 6/27



The four of us (Corinne, me, Vanita, and Marissa) in the middle of the spice garden

The trip to Munnar was amazing! It’s my favorite place that I’ve visited in India simply because of the scenery and calmness. The landscapes are breathtaking—I literally was left speechless at times. After about 10 hours on the semi-sleeper bus we had to transfer to a much smaller bus that was capable of climbing the steep hill and navigating the hairpin turns as we weaved our way to Munnar. The last couple of hours of the drive were unforgettable. The first tea plantation we saw out the window left everyone going “ohh..wow!!” and every single person’s camera came out immediately. Munnar is famous for its endless rolling hills of perfectly manicured tea plantations and arranged like a puzzle. Of course it’s rainy season there now, so we dealt with off and on showers, but it really didn’t take away from the experience at all. In fact, I think it added to it. It was so chilly there…somewhere in the mid-60s I would say if I had to guess. I had my sweatshirt/sweater and scarf on the whole time.

After we arrived, the taxi driver picked us up from the bus stand and took us to a restaurant for breakfast. After not eating for the past 16 hours, we were all starving. I had a masala omelet and some idly, which is kind of like a paddy of cooked rice (wet, not dry). Of course, being in Munnar, we had to have tea too, and it did not disappoint! That was the first of MANY cups of tea in Munnar...

After breakfast we went to the resort to check into our bungalow. It was a decent place; two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a patio that backed to the woods, and a full kitchen. Being in the middle of the woods, there was no cell phone signal and the internet sticks wouldn’t work, so we were literally stuck there and had to place a lot of trust in the reception folk that they would bring us our dinner and breakfast and pick us up to go back to the main office. The resort was so peaceful in the middle of the woods (lots of bugs, though!). A couple other issues were there was no heat (and it was freezing, especially at night), and the hot water and gas did not work so we couldn’t take showers or make tea to warm us up. The perpetual dampness in Munnar also meant a damp bed and damp sheets. I just told all the girls to pretend we were camping and that helped keep my spirits high…plus it was only for one night! The place was cute and we got an incredible deal on it because Rohini’s and Steve’s cousin is the managing director, so we really couldn’t complain!

After we checked in, we went to ride elephants!!! My trip to India is complete now that I’ve worn a sari, gone to an Indian wedding, and ridden an elephant. It was a small place tucked away in the woods and luckily it was just 2 to an elephant, so I rode one with Vanita. Fairly cheap at Rs. 200 a person ($4.50), too. The elephant walked super slow down a path in the woods about 200 meters long, then walked back. It was about 10 minutes total but honestly that’s all you need, otherwise it’s a bit boring. It was so cold out that it was nice to sit on a warm elephant J. Such a cool experience!

We also took a drive and went to some scenic viewpoints to take pictures. There were so many gorgeous waterfalls and rolling hills of tea plantations. We went shopping for a bit at a market and also went to a very crowded spice store, where I purchased a few more spices on my list.

List of the spices I purchased in Cochin & Munnar:

- Coriander

- Fennel seed

- Candy-coated fennel seed (it’s the after-dinner mint here)

- Cinnamon

- Vanilla

- Black pepper

- Bay leaves

- Cardamom

- Garam masala

- Tea masala

- Turmeric

- Red chili powder

- Cloves

Big packets (100g) of these spices were anywhere between 30 and 90 rupees a pack, which is about $1-2. Wayyy cheaper (and fresher!) than you can get in the U.S., so I had to load up. I also got a ½ kg of broken leaf tea (B.O.P.) which I believe is just regular black tea. We’ll see when I get home and test it out! The art of making tea is something I’ve become interested while over here, especially with having at least two cups of tea a day. The process of boiling the tea with the water, then adding milk, bringing it to a boil again, adding certain spices, etc. is definitely something I will dabble in upon returning home. Especially with all the delicious spices I bought! Can anyone else think of any other spices I should look for?

After the spices and shopping we headed back to the bungalow and had dinner brought to us (woohoo..room service), which consisted of ghee rice, fried fish, a fish curry, chapattis, and veg korma. Yummy!

Breakfast was brought an hour late on Sunday…something about the kitchen “not being open” on time…eh, it was fine though. After the meal we headed out to some more scenic points and even stopped along the way to catch a glimpse of a wild elephant family walking through the woods! We went to a spice garden where we had a tour and learned about how all the different spices are grown. The driver tried to take us to a flower garden next but we decided against it (something he wasn’t very happy about because he gets commission at each tourist place he takes us to—whatever, it’s our money and our time!). We did a tiny, tiny bit of trekking- only about half an hour but that’s all we had time for. That’s where I took the video I posted to my facebook. I even saw an endanger giant grizzly squirrel!! It was huge, black, and awfully scary..and was darting through the trees. After the trekking I got some delicious ginger tea from a little tea stall at the top of the hill. It took at least 5 minutes for the man to make it and it was so cool just watching him at work.

We went to a lovely restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet called Rapsy Restaurant where we loaded up on lunch/dinner. Vanita and I took a different bus home than Corinne and Marissa because the other girls couldn’t get seats on our bus. The buses left between 4 and 4:30pm, so we had to make lunch last through the evening and night. We ordered tons of food!! Parottas (spun tortilla-like bread), veg korma, chicken chaps (spicy..yum!), lassies, and omelets. This restaurant is known for being tourist/foreigner friendly and there were all sorts of handwritten messages in different languages on the wall. Not to mention, the cashier kept striking up conversation with Corinne in French!

The bus back was lonnnggg..probably felt the longest out of any of the trips I’ve taken so far. This could have been because it was just a seater, not a semi-sleeper or sleeper, and the seats didn’t go back very far. It was impossible to get comfortable and my night consisted of a few 30 minute naps. People kept getting on and off and on and off…it felt like a local bus. We were jarred awake by the driver’s screams of “Madiwala!!!” (our stop) unexpectedly early, at 4:30am. We did not anticipate arriving until at least 6am. Good thing we knew exactly how to walk back to St. John’s after getting off because we were completely bombarded with auto rickshaw drivers asking us where we were going and if we wanted an auto. I had to repeatedly shout “no!” and tell them to leave us alone. It would have been a nightmare to someone who didn’t know what they were doing. Fortunately after having been here 6.5 weeks, they weren’t going to get to me. It was a little creepy walking back..it was only about 10-15 minutes, but we made it back safe. After sneaking in an open gate, walking past a slumped over sleeping guard, then passing another two slumped over sleeping guards about halfway through campus (awesome security), we got back to the Annex around 5-5:30am and could fortunately sleep for a few hours. I’ve never felt so relieved to get back there!

A tea plantation in Munnar.
I took this picture with my iPhone then used the Instagram app to give it this neat filter.

Passion fruit

The backyard of the bungalow we stayed at.
It was so peaceful sit out there and just listen and watch nature.

The spice shop we spent quite a bit of time (and money) in.
So crowded!

Elephant ride with Vanita

On the slow walk...

Me, atop an elephant! He/she was a sweetheart.

1 comment:

  1. I love that you got to ride an elephant! How do you tell if it's a male or a female elephant? It sounds like Munnar was a lot of fun and the spice shop looks like it's a big hit in that city. The spices you bought will be so much fun to cook with- you'll probably using a lot of them to create some yummy/spicy India food when you get back to Tampa! I had never seen a passion fruit until I went to Costa Rica- they had them everywhere too! Have fun hanging out in Bangalore this weekend, I'm sure you will enjoy a little break from all of your traveling adventures.

    Talk soon!

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